BIG YANK 26AW
Yutaka Fujihara onthe 26AW Collection.
For 26AW, the lineup includes a new denim jacket, a gray chambray shirt, a black chambray set-up, and more. We sat down with Creative Director Yutaka Fujihara to talk about this season's theme, what inspired each piece, and how he hopes you'll wear them.
A Denim Jacket, Down to the Last Detail
The piece I most wanted to make this time was this denim jacket. Going through Mr. Teramoto's archive, we learned that BIG YANK had denim pants around the 1940s to '50s. If we were going to build on those jeans, I thought, "I want to make a jacket that works as a set-up too." That's where it started.
A Denim Jacket, Down to the Last Detail
── Which piece did you put the most into this season?
The piece I most wanted to make this time was this denim jacket. Going through Mr. Teramoto's archive, we learned that BIG YANK had denim pants around the 1940s to '50s. If we were going to build on those jeans, I thought, "I want to make a jacket that works as a set-up too." That's where it started. BIG YANK did make denim jackets in the '60s and '70s, but this time I deliberately went for the same era as the 1940s shirts and designed a single-pocket denim jacket.
── What was the most important detail for you?
The most obvious one is the right chest pocket. A typical first-type jacket has the pocket on the left, but I own a vintage piece that has it on the right. It wasn't a random choice; we adopted a spec that actually existed. The other thing is the stitching. The pants use triple stitching, so we used it on the jacket too, for a unified look when worn as a set-up. It's not just the back yoke: even the inside of the T-back is triple-stitched, so it's properly built in the places you can't see. For this denim set-up, both the pants and the jacket use yellow stitching throughout. It's a shape BIG YANK hasn't had before, and I'd love to see it grow into a new staple.
── Any suggestions on how to wear it?
It's been a while since we made something in rigid denim, so I recommend buttoning it all the way up and leaving only the bottom button open. It keeps the neckline clean while still feeling relaxed. The cuffs are cut a little slim, so if you roll them up, your watch or accessories look great. The set-up is the obvious choice, but I'd also love to see people enjoy it as denim on denim.
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A Brushed Gray Chambray, Rare Even in Vintage
This one is based on a 1930s chambray shirt. Last season the theme was the Yama-Poke; this time we built it around the BIG YANK Gacha-Poke. The piece that left the strongest impression on me was one from Mr. Teramoto's archive.
A Brushed Gray Chambray, Rare Even in Vintage
── How did the gray chambray shirt come about?
This one is based on a 1930s chambray shirt. Last season the theme was the Yama-Poke (the mountain-shaped pocket); this time we built it around the BIG YANK Gacha-Poke (the asymmetric pockets). The piece that left the strongest impression on me was a gray chambray from Mr. Teramoto's archive. It looks like an ordinary gray chambray at first glance, but it's brushed on the inside, so it felt like wearing a flannel shirt. The moment I saw it, I thought, "I have to make this in season two." Gray chambray is hard to find even in vintage, and a brushed one is even more unusual, which made it interesting. We used that fabric here and finished it with metal buttons, a 1930s detail.
── How do you recommend styling it?
Because it's brushed, it's warm enough to throw on over a T-shirt. At the exhibition, we heard a lot of "a gray shirt is unusual" and "how should I wear it?" Rather than light-wash denim, I'd pair it with dark rigid denim or black pants. It also goes well with the black chambray pants from this season, so I'd love to see it worked into outfits beyond the set-up. Gray work shirts are surprisingly rare, so I hope it earns a place in your closet as something new.
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You Can't Talk About BIG YANK Without the Gacha-Poke
Last season the theme was the Yama-Poke; this time it's based on the 1929 Gacha-Poke model. It's an early model with a chin strap, from before the storm cuffs that BIG YANK is known for.
You Can't Talk About BIG YANK Without the Gacha-Poke
── So the Gacha-Poke is the theme this season.
Last season the theme was the Yama-Poke; this time it's based on the 1929 Gacha-Poke model. It's an early model with a chin strap, from before the storm cuffs that BIG YANK is known for. So the cuffs are shaped differently, and the triple stitching runs all the way through to the cuff, which is very much of that period and worth a close look. It comes in a single blue chambray fabric, and we paid attention to the small details too, like the blue bar tacks and metal buttons. This shirt in particular is full of interesting details, so I hope people take the time to look closely.
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New Colors for the Yama-Poke Flannel Shirt
This flannel shirt is a staple we've made since our first season. A flannel with the Yama-Poke is an especially rare model, even in vintage. Following on from 26SS, we based it on that Yama-Poke spec again and created a new check.
New Colors for the Yama-Poke Flannel Shirt
── The flannel shirt has been a staple since the first season.
This flannel shirt is a staple we've made since our first season. A flannel with the Yama-Poke is an especially rare model, even in vintage. Following on from 26SS, we based it on that Yama-Poke spec again and created a new check. It's a wider check than you'd find in vintage, in a gray and black colorway. Last time we did blue and black and white and black, but this time we deliberately went with these colors. We heard a lot of "the colors are beautiful" at the exhibition.
── The balance of the silhouette is part of the appeal.
We widened the body slightly and kept the length neither too long nor too short, adjusting it so it works with today's proportions. If you haven't worn an open-collar flannel shirt much before, I'd love for you to give it a try.
── Will the flannel shirt continue in future seasons?
Yes. I want to grow this flannel shirt into a BIG YANK staple. Next season I'd like to propose different colorways and checks as well. For our collaboration with SAINT Mxxxxxx, we're also offering a green and black check. I hope you'll take a look at that too.
── There's also a new half-zip model.
Yes. This time we also made a new half-zip model with a small chin strap. The flannel colorways and the scale of the check are based on vintage, but I think the half-zip shape gives it an unmistakably BIG YANK feel. I hope you'll pick this one up as well.
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A Black Chambray Set-Up That Works with Leather Shoes
This season we made a set-up in black chambray. The pants are based on a work pant we made before, but in a slightly heavier twill for fall and winter. The silhouette isn't too wide, so it should pair easily with the jacket.
A Black Chambray Set-Up That Works with Leather Shoes
── Tell us about the black chambray set-up.
This season we made a set-up in black chambray. The pants are based on a work pant we made before, but in a slightly heavier twill for fall and winter. The silhouette isn't too wide, so you can wear them clean in your usual size, or go up an inch for a slightly relaxed fit.
── Any suggestions on how to wear it?
For footwear, I'd rather see it with leather shoes or boots than sneakers. It's workwear, but I'd like people to wear it with a slightly more grown-up feel.
── There's attention to the small details here too.
The pants share the same details as the SS season's work pants. The tag is deliberately placed on the inside, so it doesn't show. And starting this season, we've made an original BIG YANK zipper. It's used on the new half-zip flannel shirt and on these pants. It's engraved with BIG YANK, and the pull is slightly larger, so it's easy to use.
── The jacket is also made as part of the set-up.
The jacket is lined in flannel. Some 1930s–'40s vintage pieces have wool linings or are unlined, but this time we chose flannel. In fact, the lining is the same check as this season's half-zip flannel shirt. I really love the salmon pink and black colorway. It's normally hidden, but I hope you enjoy it whenever you put the jacket on. We also paid attention to the small details, like the eyelet zipper, black bar tacks, black piping, and black welts. The back is deliberately kept simple, so I hope you appreciate that balance too.
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Everyday Eyewear, Made with ayame
BIG YANK has no vintage eyewear, so at first the question was, "What shape should it be?" Working with ayame, we took inspiration from vintage safety glasses and finished it as a slim frame that's easy to wear every day.
Everyday Eyewear, Made with ayame
── What did you focus on in the collaboration with ayame?
BIG YANK has no vintage eyewear, so at first the question was, "What shape should it be?" Working with ayame, we took inspiration from vintage safety glasses and went with a slim frame that's easy to wear every day. The hinge screw on the front, the part that usually becomes the icon, we deliberately left plain and simple. Instead, the temples carry the diamond detail that symbolizes BIG YANK.
── Tell us about the colors.
We made three: black, brown, and a black-and-clear two-tone. The black comes with navy lenses. They're colors that go with any styling, so I hope you'll enjoy matching them to the day's outfit. A collaboration model with steven alan, based on this design, is also planned. It has a different feel again, so please look forward to it.
── We hear you wear them yourself.
I do. ayame's craftsmanship is truly meticulous, and I wear them almost every day. I think they've turned out to be a pair that goes easily with workwear and with everyday outfits alike.
I love vintage, but the point isn't to reproduce it as is. I want to propose clothes you want to wear now. I hope 26AW, too, becomes a set of staples you'll wear for a long time.
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